Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

棉兰老涡旋的数值模拟     

李荣凤  曾庆存  季仲贞 《热带海洋学报》1991,(4)

用一个水平分辨率比较高的非线性正压模式,对热带西太平洋海域里的海流进行了数值模拟。计算海流与观测结果颇相一致。结果表明:赤道以北、棉兰老岛以东附近海域中,棉兰老冷涡在一年的大部分时间里都得到发展,但是其范围、强度和中心位置在各个月份并不相同,显示出很强的季节变化;在哈马黑拉岛东北海域,6月份突然出现了一个反气旋式的涡旋;这个涡旋8月份发展得最强,一直持续到10月份,在11月份就消亡了。  相似文献   

A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface     

孙大鹏李玉成  郭海滨 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):257-266

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.  相似文献   

Integrating Uncertainty Theories with GIS for Modeling Coastal Hazards of Climate Change     

Peter J. Cowell  Thomas Q. Zeng 《Marine Geodesy》2003,26(1):5-18

Prediction of coastal hazards due to climate change is fraught with uncertainty that stems from complexity of coastal systems, estimation of sea level rise, and limitation of available data. In-depth research on coastal modeling is hampered by lack of techniques for handling uncertainty, and the available commercial geographical information systems (GIS) packages have only limited capability of handling uncertain information. Therefore, integrating uncertainty theory with GIS is of practical and theoretical significance. This article presents a GIS-based model that integrates an existing predictive model using a differential approach, random simulation, and fuzzy set theory for predicting geomorphic hazards subject to uncertainty. Coastal hazard is modeled as the combined effects of sea-level induced recession and storm erosion, using grid modeling techniques. The method is described with a case study of Fingal Bay Beach, SE Australia, for which predicted responses to an IPCC standard sea-level rise of 0.86 m and superimposed storm erosion averaged 12 m and 90 m, respectively, with analysis of uncertainty yielding maximum of 52 m and 120 m, respectively. Paradoxically, output uncertainty reduces slightly with simulated increase in random error in the digital elevation model (DEM). This trend implies that the magnitude of modeled uncertainty is not necessarily increased with the uncertainties in the input parameters. Built as a generic tool, the model can be used not only to predict different scenarios of coastal hazard under uncertainties for coastal management, but is also applicable to other fields that involve predictive modeling under uncertainty.  相似文献   

Characteristics of Scour and Deposition in Front of Breakwaters Under Irregular Broken Clapotis   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

高学平张亚  李昌良 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(3):493-500

First the scour and deposition patterns of the sandy seabed in front of a vertical breakwater under the action of irregular broken clapotis are investigated experimentally and classified into five types: scour type Ⅰ , scour type Ⅱ, scour type Ⅲ, deposition type Ⅰ, and deposition type Ⅱ . Secondly, the processes of formation of scour and deposition patterns are probed in comparison with those induced by regular broken clapotis and standing waves. Thirdly, the criteria for distinguishing scour and deposition patterns under irregular broken clapotis are presented.  相似文献   

Modeling of Multi-Freedom Ship Motions in Irregular Waves with Fuzzy Neural Networks     

余建星  陆培毅  高喜峰  夏锦祝 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(2)

1 .IntroductionAshiptravelingatseaundergoesundesirablewave inducedmotions ,namely ,surge ,sway ,heav ing ,rolling ,pitchingandyaw .Thesemotionsoftencauseproblemstothecrew ,theonboardequip mentand ,intheworstcase ,thesafetyofthevessel.Tominimizethewave inducedshipmotions ,controlsystemsmaybeapplied .Theaccuratemodelingofshipmotionsisthereforeveryimportantforshipdesignanddesignofmotioncontrolsystems .Manyresearchershavedevelopedshipmotionpredictionmethodsbasedonthepotentialflowtheo ries (Dong ,…  相似文献   

Modal Wave Number Tomography for South China Sea Front   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

彭临慧  王宁  邱晓芳  田纪伟 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(2)

1 .IntroductionTheSouthChinaSealiestothesoutheastpartoftheChinesecontinent.TheKuroshioflowsbytheeastsideoftheLuzonStraitfromsouthtonorthinwinter ,spring ,andautumn .TheKuroshioaf fectsnearcurrentfieldsandtemperaturefields,changingtheoceanenvironmentparametersandsoundpropagation .Thus ,theoceanacoustictomographytechniqueisofpotentialtolong term ,largescalemonitoringoftheocean .Themodalwavenumbertomographymethod (Rajanetal.,1 987;Frisketal.,1 989)isusedtoobtainthesoundspeedprofileinwatercol…  相似文献   

A New Probability of Detection Model for Updating Crack Distribution of Offshore Structures     

李典庆  张圣坤  唐文勇 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(3)

1 .IntroductionNondestructiveinspection (NDI)isveryimportantforensuringthereliabilityofoffshorestructuresintheirservicelives (Lauraetal.,1 996 ) .Itiswellknownthatdetectionofflawsinvolvesconsider ablestatisticaluncertainties.Asaresult,theprobabilityofdetection (POD)forallflawsofagivensizehasbeenusedintheliteraturetodefinethecapabilityofaparticularNDItechniqueinagivenen vironment.SincethedataofPODusuallyscatterlargely ,itisdifficulttodeterminewhichmodelfitstheavailabledatabest.Thismodelun…  相似文献   

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls     

Qiu Dahong  Zang Jun  Jia Ying Academician of the Chinese Academy of Sciences  Professor  the State Key Laboratory of Coastal  Offshore Engineering 《中国海洋工程》1996,(2)

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves  相似文献   

Remote Sensing Analysis of the Suspended Sediment Transport in Lingdingyang   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

You Yuming Hou Min Senior Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute    Nanjing Assistant Engineer  River  Harbour Department  Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute    Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1992,(3)

- The data of landsat TM of multi-temporal for Lingdingyang Estuary, Pearl River in China is firstly used with suspended sediment concentration of field measurement to establish a correlative model equation. After the ratio processing of TM data and atmospheric correction, the images of suspended sediment concentration of different temporals are exported from the image processing systems AREIS II and III. These images express the characteristics of suspended sediment distribution, the mode of sediment transport and the extent of dispersion under the actions of tidal current and wind condition of different seasons.  相似文献